Why Choose Gold-Filled Over Vermeil Jewelry?

If you’ve grown frustrated with the limited time you have to enjoy gold-plated jewelry, you need to look for pieces that won’t lose their golden shine, exposing the underlying base metal. I love to work with those base metals but covering them with a thin layer of 14k gold doesn’t work. At least not for long.

You have options. The most valuable being all gold. 10k, 12k, or 14k are all good choices. But pricey. Another choice is called vermeil or gold-plated sterling silver. Except for the substitution of sterling silver for a base metal, this is similar to cheaper gold-plated jewelry. It costs more because sterling silver is more expensive than brass, a common base metal. But that thin layer of gold plating will still wear off quickly.

For better longevity at a less costly price point, consider gold filled. A base metal is covered with a much thicker layer of gold and rather than electroplated it is heat and pressure bonded to the base metal.

Both vermeil and gold-filled jewelry can tarnish, but it is less likely with gold filled. It is the base metal that causes this promise. If you are allergic to sterling silver, avoid vermeil and its thin layer of gold.

Color Differences

An additional consideration when choosing pieces to add to your jewelry wardrobe is the color differences between the various metals. The color of vermeil is often noticeably different from gold-filled. This can be because of the base metal used, but the gold alloy is also a factor. 24k is pure gold. Other metals are added to pure gold to make it durable. The higher the percentage of other metal in the alloy also determines the color of a piece. Copper creates a darker gold, while silver and copper produce a yellow metal and more copper a rose gold. The lower the karat number, the less gold is in the alloy. This makes the metal stronger but can also mean differences in color between brands.

My preference is gold-filled. It costs more than vermeil, or it should, but it’s a piece that should be in your jewelry box for decades. If you’re looking for a piece you plan to wear daily for years, save up for 14k gold. Otherwise gold-filled is a good choice especially, if like me, you fall in love with pieces.

Tip: gold-filled marks

1/10 10K GF – 10% of 10 karat gold bonded to a base metal.

1/20 14K GF – 5% of 14 karat gold bonded to a base metal.